Sometimes it is enough to just be at sea with the wind and the water, it feels as if you could sail on forever and never come back again. I suppose that has always been the lure for sailors…either running from home or running towards adventure and the unknown that lies ahead. But for me, it’s always been about how your present day slows down and life at sea becomes more simple. Joy is found in the little things like finding extra treats like sour gummy bears in your pockets, or when your crewmate makes you a cup of tea before your watch (Thanks Ted!). It feels like you could live simply and joyfully forever.
But once we reach land and discover a new place we’ve never been before and make new friends, we’re reminded that this is why we cruise the way we do with Dogbark. Wildlife and scenery are a huge part of it, but it’s also about the human connection we get to build with people around the world. We’ve been lucky enough to explore some of the most remote places, and learn about other cultures and backgrounds first hand. We get to meet other sailors or outdoor adventurers and swap beta for our journeys.
While Qaqartoq only has a population of just over 3,100 people, it’s a popular destination for any travellers in the North Atlantic. According to a local, they had 150,000 visitors last year alone. It’s easy to see why. Of all the arctic places we’d been to, Qaqartoq was definitely the nicest. Most of the homes and buildings were well taken care of, paved roads, and the town amenities are easily accessible from the harbor. With a new airport that just opened this year nearby (Qaqortoq Airport – JJU), I am sure this town will continue to grow as it meets the tourism and commercial fishing demands. The only people in positions of power that I saw (the police and the mayor), were actually women and while that shouldn’t surprise me, it’s always nice to see.
After wandering the streets and picking up a few new provisions, we ended up at a local pub that just opened called Tamassa. The direct translation from the Greenlandic language of Kalaallisut is “Come In”. So naturally, we went in. The fact that we could order a local beer on tap and sit outside in the sunshine…that was a new activity for us. Most of the arctic communities in Canada are dry towns and you can’t order alcohol, so this felt like a really special treat.
We ordered a more amber ale and a pilsner brewed from QAJAQ Brewing, brewed in Narsaq, Greenland, just a little north of where we were. The beers were delicious, but the highlight for me was the food from the kitchen. The small dining room served elevated pub food that included local caribou, lamb, and regional pickled vegetables that were quite the hit for this foodie. We loved it so much we came back for dinner and ordered a spread!
It felt like we couldn’t walk 10 feet before we were making new friends everywhere we went. From the moment we docked, friendly locals stopped to chat with us, offering their homes for showers, or giving us the latest intel for nightlife and nearby hot springs. As far as other travellers, we met a danish guy who has been living in Qaqartoq for the last 14 years, and a norwegian couple who were on a kayak tour of Greenland. We made friends with the ice pilot and captain of the fancy yacht docked in front of us, and another french/italian couple sailing on their 33 ft. boat that rafted next to us. So many people with so many stories to tell! It was fun to host new friends aboard Dogbark, but before we knew it, it was time to hit up the only late night spot in town.
As someone who regularly sees live music, even having friends headline at 10:30pm is a stretch for me, I didn’t think we would make it to midnight, but turns out when you’re having fun and the sun doesn’t set till after 10:30pm, it’s pretty easy to make it till midnight.
We had just missed a concert on the dock the night before we arrived, but the locals told us the same band would be performing again at the red bar up the street. We heard it was a heavy metal rock band, and while that’s not normally our jam, who are we to pass up an opportunity to see some Greenlandic rock?
Given how small of a town we were in and that it was so late, we assumed the bar was already open, but they had somehow reached capacity since there was long queue outside of the doors. We thought we somehow missed the memo because everyone standing in line already had a pint in their hand and somehow we came empty handed. But turns out the doors didn’t open till mdinight so we were just in time!
The bar did not dissapoint though. There’s something about being crammed in a tiny dark bar with people who speak a different language than you and you have to try to figure out what the heck is going on. The decor included taffany lamp chandelliers with Marilyn Monroe and Elvis figurines in the corners…gold records decorated the walls and a small stage at the end of the room outfitted with some nice LED stage lights and a decent sound system was booming.
We hope you enjoy an audio clip from the first band.
Let’s just say that lots of dancing was had, and while some went home earlier than others, there was a few heroes who closed down the bar till 4am. Which may or may not have affected out ability to leave Qaqartoq in a timely manner this morning… but nothing a little cinnamon oat pancakes couldn’t fix us right up.
Then it was off to find a viking church!
To the friendships we make, however brief they are, and the memories we share as a crew that makes this all so meaningful for us. Thank you for being a part of our journey!
Basic Greenlandic Phrases:
Aluu: Hello (informal, pronounced ah-loo)
Qanoq ippit?: How are you? (pronounced ka-noq ee-pit)
Qujanaq: Thank you (pronounced qou-yan-uq)
Illillu: You’re welcome (pronounced ee-slee-sloo)
Love this!!