Sometimes, there are things that occur in this world beyond explanation. Moments and places that move our hearts and souls to be reminded that there is an entire universe beyond our earthly realm we call home.
Author: Sandy
Ísafjörður and a Taste of Iceland
As we approached Iceland and watched the sunset golden hour light reflect off the towering fjords, we were all in agreement that despite our reluctance to leave Greenland, we made the right choice to sail to Iceland. Seeing everything from the water gave us the shear scale of these beautiful fjords. Some peaks reach around 3,000 feet, and it was easy to see that Dogbark has much to explore!
The Denmark Strait – and some birthday musings
Leaving the Greenland fjords behind was bitter sweet for the whole crew, though seeing the REAL icebergs outside of the entrance to Prins Christian Sund was a great way to ease the yearning for more time in Greenland.
Prins Christian Sund – Amaze! Amaze!
Honestly, I have no words for the last couple of days cruising Prins Christian Sund (Prince Christian Sound). I am still in disbelief at the scale, the beauty, and the wild vastness that has surrounded us every where you look through the entire channel. Imagine a post apocalyptic waterworld that would exist if national parks like Zion or Yellowstone or Grand Teton were all right next to eachother and then completly flooded with glacier water.
Hot Smoking Fish with Graeme
Smoking fish has been a long standing tradition that has been a part of many different cultures over the centuries. It was a common method to preserve food for long winters or for being out at sea. One of the things I look forward to on Dogbark is Graeme’s smoked fish. Since we were catching cod and char left and right, Graeme fired up the smoker and I decided to ask him to share a few pro tips of how we smoke fish while underway.
I Lied…THIS is Why We Sail Dogbark!
Everyday of this journey just keeps getting better than the day before. Have you ever known the hills of Greenland to be alive with the sound of music?
Where Ice Meets Steam – Uunartoq Hot Springs
Who can say no to an arctic spa day? It seemed every traveller and local we came across highly reccomended a trip to visit Uunartoq Hot Springs. With a combined history of Viking and Inuit heritage usage, it’s easy to see why the earlier settlers made this a top destination.
Praise the Cod!
A heavy, low pitch clang could be heard, alternating between two tones. I could hear the Qaqortoq church bells ring just above the harbor from the very dark bunk of Dogbark’s aft berth. It must be Sunday…or is that the town alarm system?
Now This is Why We Have Dogbark
The crew explores Qaqartoq, makes new friends, and enjoys some local cuisine.
Land Ho! Qaqortoq, Greenland
After 6 days at sea and the endless fog for days, seeing our first glimpse other Greenland coastline through the mist of the fog almost felt like a mirage. It was really exciting because we could finally see land!
Fog, More Fog, and Foggier
You know that moment in The Truman Show when Jim Carey sails off towards the big blue wall to find answers? It felt similar on Dogbark as we sailed into the known. The sky was so big and blue as we left the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and almost immediately we entered a sea of neverending fog.
Pit Stop Countdown
“What time is it at your shop? Sorry we’ve been traveling and we’re not sure what day or time it is…” Ted’s been on the phone with NAPA and every possible hardware store near any harbors between Newfoundland and Quebec the last day. Sailing through different time zones and being out at sea has everyone second guessing which watch is right.
Magic on a Midnight Watch
There are two things I look forward to most on any sail transit: Sailing at night and watching the sunrise from the water. Depending on where you are in the world and which watch you are on, sometimes you get lucky and get both in one watch. I will always be the first to volunteer for the midnight or early morning watches because I find that in those moments, life becomes very still and very simple. I can feel my heart bursting with gratitude, awe, and wonder.
The Calm Before the Fog
A sailor’s last shower before you head to sea almost feels like a ritual. Since it’s been so hot, I opted for a cold shower just after 7am, but though the warm hot water crept in anyway, and you can’t help but bask in it not knowing when you will get your next hot shower.
The Reverse Viking Route Begins!
It’s been 2 years since my last adventure with Dogbark, and while it feels too long to be away, it also feels like it was just the other month. It’s a very exciting time and homecoming for those of us who were not able to join the adventures around Newfoundland last year.
Well Travelled and Well Lived Advice From the Crew
We ask our crew: If you had one piece of life advice to give, what would it be?
Emerging into Civilization and a New Home
Champagne sailing for our last day and Dogbark finds a new berth at the Royal Newfound Yacht Club.
NW Passage Complete, but We’re Not Done Yet!
We’ve conclude the NW Passage of our journey, now to make our way down south!
A New Frontier at Fort Ross
Tracing the steps and exploring the former trading grounds of one of Canada’s oldest companies, Hudson’s Bay Company.
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The Day We Did ALL the Things!
Pushing through the ice towards Bellot Strait, we find new edges among belugas and a once in a lifetime experience with the Canadian Coast Guard!
Welcome to the Global Race to the Ice Edge Challenge
It’s a race to the first real ice edge flow in Larsen Sound!
A Full Moon and Friendships
A quick pitstop in Cambridge Bay, but we are rewarded with good laughs and new friendships.
Do You Ever Feel Like You’re Upside Down?
A bumpy few days and wildfire smoke sets a dystopian feel to our adventure.
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Through the Looking Ice
Looking through our crystal ice ball to determine our route through the NW Passage.
We’re in Polar Bear Country Now
So how does one navigate getting onto a beach to meet a taxi but there are two polar bear cubs and probably a mama polar bear not too far in between you? You send a sacrificial lamb of course.
Al and Graeme Have Been Lying…
How did we all get tricked into believing them for all this time? Was it the polar mirage?
Delivery: Sitka to Nome Part 3 (False Pass and Nunivak Island)
With an ominous name like False Pass, one can only wonder what type of trepidation awaits us.
Delivery: Sitka to Nome Part 2 (Anchorage Hopping and Fresh Fish!)
Exploring the beautiful Alaskan Peninsula anchorages and getting a fresh fish delivery in the Aleutian Islands!
Delivery: Sitka to Nome Part 1 (Sitka to Kodiak)
Our skipper Al and his partner Shauna need to get Dogbark to Nome! 1,400nm is a reasonable amount for a shakedown cruise right?