An Island in the Ice

We had an interesting passage from Barrow to Cross Island. Just off Elson Lagoon we started seeing ice, and as there are shoals just east of the lagoon (we are headed east) we were forced to go deeper and deeper into the ice floes. We sailed overnight through ice that sometimes required us to backtrack, once and a while we even had to push ice out of the way. Twice our promising leads through the ice closed down to roughly the width of the boat, but we slipped through with some help from our eyes in the sky (John’s drone). Another time Talia found us a secret passage after frustrating dead end leads. It is amazing how strong and useful the girls have become, standing full watches, long hours spotting ice in the cold from the bow, Savai with me and Talia with John.

By morning we were close enough to Prudhoe Bay that I was able to pick up AIS targets (boats) and I called a friendly tug driver who pointed us towards their oil rigs and the clearer water that he was anchored in. Relief!

After passing the main unloading area at Prudhoe we again angled north and east to our next chosen spot. Cross Island doesn’t look like much on a map, but it is actually much more protected than it looks. In fact, when we compare the chart footprint of the island to aerial photos we have taken since we have been here, the island has grown! Now, the chart data is likely very old, but the lobe(s) that have grown angle to the south. So, instead of a boomerang shape, you have a sickle, with a very useful handle that essentially blocks wind from the SW, all the way around to the SE, with some help from Bartlett and an unnamed island just south of Cross. Long story short, we are anchored in 16-17 feet of water, with 200 feet of chain out in a wide calm bay. And over the last few days we have swung safely from the NE part of the bay around in a huge arc, completely protected from wind and ice through something like 270 degrees.

Lest you should think it is all rest and relaxation, I need to remind you that we run a tight ship on Dogbark. There are twice daily scientific observations. 2 radio nets to check into. An endless supply of boat projects (the diesel heating system has been dramatically improved—it has snowed on us 5 times since Barrow). And then there are the dinghy cruises, the shoreside football games. Today I think we will play wiffle ball. And in the evenings we play cards (I think there will be a whole other post about a certain bet I lost…stick to sailing Dad.)

Meanwhile the clock is ticking. Our Turnaround day is looming, and there is still 7/10ths ice between us and the next safe refuge. We need hot weather and southerly breezes to blow the ice offshore. It’s in the 30s…but gloriously sunny. At least we are close enough to an oil rig that if we stand on the boom, we get cell service. And you get this update. If you know a weather dance, dance for us! We need sun, and a nice offshore breeze please!

14 Replies to “An Island in the Ice”

  1. Very surprised that you advanced past Elson Lagoon knowing ice blocks your track at Alaska-Canada border when you could be enjoying Barrow with a burger and pint… FYI Cape Perry also iced in with other routes opening just sit tight for a while more…

  2. Fingers crossed for the warm weather you need. Did you feel the 6.1 and 6.4 earth quakes east of the Kavik camp? I hope there wasn’t a tsunami. Let us know !
    Love, Reen

  3. I wish you good luck on the weather! Yes, my news feed mentions earthquakes in Prudhoe Bay area, about eighty miles to the east.

  4. Hello Dogbark! I hope that you find safe progress soon and that your voyage continues to mystify and satisfy each of you.

    If you’re anywhere near NorthStar Island (a BP facility, possibly now a Hillcorp property), please take a pic! I worked on the fabrication, delivery and commissioning of the installation in the late ’90s. 🙂 It’s about 6nm offshore and if I recall correctly, the top of the refinery is about 215′ AGL, so possibly visible from some distance. Hello to the North Slope for me!

    Much love and respect to all of you, and I’m super eager to see you when/wherever you go! Stay safe and brave!

    Warmly,
    Burke

  5. Max Malavansky says: Reply

    Good weather and following seas to you all.

    Best regards, Max

  6. Dan Blanchard says: Reply

    Love reading this! I can only imagine the conversations your having about when, and if, you move east, concerns of fall ice building early, the what if’s of getting stuck in the ice for a bit or a long time…keep it coming as you can and thanks for sharing. Hugs to all. Dan

  7. Awesome progress. I hope you can get a signal at some point that would allow you to upload some of that drone footage. That’s got to be amazing!

  8. we have sun…hopefully we can blow it your way…we are dancing…
    be safe..
    hugs
    Renee’

  9. I’ve been tracking you all everyday!! Glad to see progression and thanks for the update. 💛

    * Thank you for the postcard! It’s hanging in my workspace!

  10. Sarah Callender says: Reply

    This summer, as I help a bunch of anxious 12th graders with their college application essays, I worry that your daughters will have nothing–nada–zilch about which to write for their own essays. I can’t think of anything cool, challenging, interesting or mind blowing that they will be able to write about. Sigh. So sad.

    Bwhahahaha! You guys are AMAZING!!!! Now will you please go give your wife a hug and tell her it’s from me?

    Fingers crossed for tropical temps.

  11. Sarah Callender says: Reply

    Also, would you mind translating this:

    Our Turnaround day is looming, and there is still 7/10ths ice between us and the next safe refuge.

    My own translation: If we don’t make it to a certain point by a certain date–and this is still a possibility because what lies in front of us is 70% ice–we may have to turn around.

    Am I close? Regardless, I am sending warm prayers your way!

  12. Been watching you on AIS from the tug as we move cargo between oil field facilities. We’ve encountered quite a bit of ice during the last three days as we shuttled between the Endicott facility & a facility in Mikkelsen Bay. If you’re looking for good anchorage during the SW blow forecasted for Wednesday, Tigvariak Island or the southern portion of Mikkelson is a good spot. There is a cell tower that offers great reception at approx. 70* 09’N 147* 05W. ATT, Verizon & GCI all work with 4+ bars. I’m sure you’re aware, but keep a keen eye out during those whiffle ball games, the bears should start showing up soon. We anchored up where you are a couple times last year…a great place to watch wildlife.

  13. Riveted! Whatever this SW blow on Wednesday is about, may steamy weather follow. Also, what a Eric said!!! Polar bears are heavy hitters!

  14. Lars Gustavsson says: Reply

    I thought that boats like yours could now make it through every August, thanks to global warming. Maybe not THIS August! 🙂

    Sincere good luck!
    Lars

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