Screeched In and Ready to Explore

I know I say it a lot, but I will probably never get over it: sailing at night just feels magical. There’s something about floating along under a million stars, a moonset, and if you’re lucky, the northern lights. The conditions were just so as we arrived to Twillingate, Newfoundland: our first real port since we left Nome about 4,700nm ago.

The moon sat low to the twinkling lights of the town. The northern lights danced above us, which made it distracting as we navigated a very poorly lit channel into the harbor. We could see a flashing stop light (or maybe it was a neon bar sign?) and traffic. It might have been the first time we saw more than one car driving around since Kodiak. It was strangely exciting. A part of me wanted to stay on the water and invisible to the world outside of Dogbark, the other part me desperately longed for some creature comforts.

A proper Newfoundlander happened to pull up in their car as we docked Dogbark. His accent reminded me of something Irish which always gives me a good chuckle. Sarah and Shauna went to stretch their legs, while the rest of us returned below to celebrate with a drink. Even Al, who does not normally drink, opened a beer and shared a cheers with us! A very well deserved occasion to celebrate! As Graeme and Rusty’s morning departure loomed closure, we took some time to reflect on the closing of unfinished business and the newly awakened dreams in the making. Dogbark in space maybe? Just imagine the dog logo on the side of a rocketship at blastoff…

The next morning we all took very well deserved showers. There’s nothing quite like that glorious hot shower feeling when you haven’t had a hot shower since Cambridge Bay. Its amazing the things you start missing and craving when you realize home comforts are near. I was perfectly happy and comfortable out at sea, but soon my mom’s homepade pho, the korean spa, fried chicken, and avocados started to consume my thoughts. One thing that I had not been dreaming of and didn’t realize how much I missed them until we got to Twillingate were PLANTS. ALL THE PLANTS.

On our walk to breakfast I spotted a whole bunch of purple clover among GRASS. I was so happy I felt like burying my whole face in the middle of the parking lot curb, shrinking down to a fairy size and just breath it all in. A first flower larger than a grain of rice! And the trees! Actual trees! Honestly, I was just happy to see anything taller than 4 inches. I never knew I could miss trees and plants so much until I lived without them for so long.

After a hearty Canadian breakfast complete with toutons (basically fry bread), we said goodbye to Graeme and Rusty, who got a taxi to Gander to fly back home to Seattle. When the local taxi driver C.J. showed up in his van, we asked him if he could take a crew photo for us. His very Newfoundland response was, “Well I ne-er-taken one-er toes-in-mee life.” (That’s how it sounded to me). Rusty showed him how to use the photo camera, and C.J. was such a natural, he didn’t even stop out of his car, just put it in reverse to position the crew center of the photo and clicked.

I can’t stop laughing about how obvious this photo is taken from inside a car. And unfortunately we didn’t get one of Sarah looking up, but hey – we’re all in it and it’s in focus! It will have to do!

After we said our farewells, we became a crew of four and spent the day exploring town. Back to our Creative crew minus Ginesse and Monica! I joked that we were Al’s Angels (like Charlie’s Angels but with Al. I couldn’t stop stopping to admire all the flowers. Twillingate is very picturesqe! It felt like walking through a living postcard. Maybe it was the 70 degree blue sky day, but the colorful homes all trimmed in white, tidy yards with various wooden boats adorned every few homes. In some ways it reminded me of a nordic/celtic version of the San Juan Island communities (complete with a driftwood gallery!).

We made our way over towards the Durrell Museum & Brigade Artisan Shoppe where we saw some neat artifacts up close and personal.

Perhaps my favorite part was just admiring all the rocky landscape and windings roads (wish I had my scooter here!) and getting to use our legs for once. Ok, actually, my favorite part was finding a shop with homemade drumstick ice cream cones. What a treat!

We even had time for a local wine tasting at Great Auk Winery, which specializes in making wines from Newfoundland berries and fruits and some specialty wines using Iceberg water. What a treat!

Shauna and I took some rest back at the boat while Sarah and I went to send off some postcards and explore more of the other side of the town.

We ended up at the local brew pub, Stage Head Pub, serving Split Rock Brewing ales and chatted with some really friendly local women.

We learned that Twillingate was primarily a fishing town up until the 90’s and then some fishing and wildlife laws were introduced that heavily affected the industry, so the government decided to start developing the tourism industry of Twillingate. Nowadays most of the homes are airbnbs, and iceberg chasing tours rule the town. This year however, they didn’t have a single iceberg in the area.

One women we met earlier told us that a couple years ago there was a three mile long flat iceberg that came right into town. She said it stuck around for a couple months until one day they had a heat wave that caused the iceberg to “explode”. She said she heard it in the middle of the night and it sounded like a big gun shot. After the iceberg exploded into bergey bits, everyone went out to harvest the ice.

A lifetime local told us the iceberg tourism has been on the decline with the reducing icebergs, and the fact that people are able to track icebergs themselves and don’t come to town anymore. Just a few decades ago the graduating high school classes were doubled with students. It makes me wonder if the town will reinvent their economy or if it will eventually die off. It would be a shame, to lose these small wonderful communities of Newfoundland.

I had no idea what Newfoundland would be like before I came here. I thought it would be like french canadian for some reason, and now I think of it has a Canadian extension of Ireland. Anyone who knows me well enough knows how much I love a good Irish/Scottish accent. Add that plus a fishing boating community, music with beautiful rocky green landscape? I’m all in!

Turns out, there is a way to become an honorary Newfounder through a tradition called a “Screech-In”. We heard we would have the opportunity at the local Captain’s Pub, which we were already planning on heading to for some live music that evening anyway. The resident Newfounder musician, Mike Sixonate initiates any willing lost souls into becoming an honorary Newfie. It feels super touristy, but it involves a shot of rum, so why not?

We said some old time Newfoundland sayings, kissing a cod, and taking a shot of local rum called Screech. Thanks Al and Shauna who stayed awake late enough to capture our screech in!

Mike was a great storyteller and performer, and it was a great way to start our exploration of Newfoundland.

This morning, we took off for Musgrave Harbour, just 40-ish nautical miles away. We were all in good spirits and excited for the somewhat sporty conditions. Motoring with a reefed jib, and Sarah and I were all smiles and laughs even with the occasional rouge wave splash.

Soon we had the wind behind us as we navigated the small islands of Hamilton Sound. By the time we got to Musgraves Harbor, some friendly harbor folks were there to catch our lines and we were ready for another adventure!

We saw our first non-NW Passage sailboat since Sandpoint, AK in the harbor. It was strange to make that realization and it was sign we were truly back in civilation where pleasure boats are becoming more of a norm. Dogbark still has her way of stealing a few glances though!

We walked into town, which didn’t have too much going on but it was enough to make our first real Newfie friend Marie at the Musgrave Harbour Lions Club. I cant resist a flea market or thrifting opportunity so when Sarah and I stopped in we got to chatting about the things and they gave us a couple rings and a fancy pen for a souvenir! Thank you Marie!

A nice cozy night in with the wind and rain outside, spaghetti and meatballs inside. Going from a busy crew of six to four has been a nice change of pace. The conversations are slow and sweet, more chances to contribute and learn about each other. Or listen to the story of how Dogbark got her name for the 20th time. But I learned something new in Al’s retelling of the story for Sarah this time! Plus I never get tired of hearing Al’s stories and could listen to them forever.

We’re off tomorrow to I don’t remember where…and everyone has gone to sleep now so I can’t ask, but we’ll report in again soon!