Yesterday I received this note from Victor Wejer, one of the men who helps boats navigate the Northwest Passage.
Message received from Canadian Coastguard :
From: “NordReg1 Iqaluit” <iqanordreg@innav.gc.ca>
Subject: 9H9573 – INFO – 08-18-1256 – LR – HEAVIER ICE CONDITIONS
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2018 13:06:44 +0000
NORDREG IQALUIT 181256UTC AUG 2018
Good morning,
Due to heavier than normal ice concentrations in the Canadian arctic
waters north of 70 degrees, the Canadian Coast Guard, recommends that
pleasure craft do not navigate in the Beaufort Sea, Barrow, Peel Sound,
Franklin Strait and Prince Regent. CCG icebreakers cannot safely escort
pleasure craft. Operators of pleasure craft considering a northwest
passage should also consider the risk of having to winter in a safe
haven in the Arctic, or in the case of an emergency, be evacuated from
beset vessels. Safety of mariners is our primary concern.
REGARDS,
NORDREG CANADA
181256UTC\LR
Then he told me that Franklin Strait has started to refreeze. Franklin Strait is one of the main bottlenecks that we hoped to traverse to complete the passage to Greenland. We can’t even get there because the border between Alaska and Canada is blocked, with the only other boat westbound with us stuck in the ice, unable to move forward or retreat.
He painted a wonderful picture of us stuck in Cambridge with Dogbark frozen in and the girls breathing air that freezes right out of your lungs.
We got the hint.
Turning back was a very hard decision. There were some tears, and some group hugs.
The Arctic is not an easy place. But it is stunningly beautiful. And there are many lessons here. As a team, we all learned about a place, a climate, an ocean like no other. We battled winds, and ice. We worried about polar bears, but never saw more than their prints and their poop.
We flat out loved our experience, the good and the bad. It snowed, actually accumulating on deck last night. In August. Nice timing!
We are lucky to have had the chance, with a ton of help and support, to explore a tiny part of it. Some of us will be back someday, but for now, it is time to leave.
But…exactly where will Dogbark go?
Time (and this blog) will soon tell but Talia is forcing me to reveal that white sand beaches and jungles may be on the itinerary.
Stay tuned, and thanks to all of you for sharing in our adventure so far!
Hope you’ll swing by soon!
I’ve been following your posts and found it all so intriguing! So many adventures! It will be interesting to see which way the wind blows as you continue to excite us with your explorations! Good luck all!
Enjoy your journey, wherever it takes you! It must have been a really tough decision, but it sounds like the right one. Let us know if you need a big box of sunscreen and/or mosquito repellent.
I’m sure you are all terribly disappointed after all the planning, but what an adventure! If it was easy, everyone would do it…. In any event, you have many more adventures to come and, perhaps it will open up for you in a future year. Fair winds.
I would just like to add that I would love to do what you’ve been doing and I envy you. Don’t feel too bad about turning back.
This summer has taught me that turning back is one of the hardest decisions a sailor can make. But also usually one of the most prudent.
And now maybe you can spend more time in some of the beautiful, warmer places you hurried thru on your way north!
Just don’t go too fast because the San Juans and Gulfs are covered in dense forest fire smoke currently. We’ve had ash falling on our boat.
We are not going in circles, we are going upwards. The path is a spiral; we have already climbed many steps.
-Herman Hesse
I can only imagine how disappointing it must be not to go in the path you had planned, but your path is still upwards! Your amazing journey is already bringing your girls up so many steps with many wonderful memories and learning experiences along the way–and will continue to do so throughout. I wish you all beautiful skies and seas, fantastic days, along your path onwards and upwards!
So sorry the NW passage did not work out this time. I’m sure it was hard but sounds like you made the right decision. Praying for safe passage to your next adventure.
I’ve never met you guys but am sad you are not reaching your goal! But what an amazing accomplishment your journey is! Best of luck in wherever the sea takes you next.
So sad to hear that you have to turn around. Happy you are all safe and not getting caught in the nasty Canadian Ice. Safe travels!!
I liked the Hesse quote above. YOU may not have “planned” the turning back, but perhaps there is a greater, unseen path keeping you safe!
If this was easy, it would not be the epic adventure that it is. I am sad for you, but you are making the right decision.
Whew. I’m glad you are turning back. Seems like there are so many unknowns. I’m sure you are disappointed, but you have had a great adventure.
We feel your heavy hearts but know that more wonderful adventures are in the near future! Best to be safe and strong for that next stop.
So now can you take some time to share your stories of the North? While making more stories? That there were only a couple of westbound rec boats and Dogbark! is not stuck sounds like a win. Enjoy this situation and the chance to reorient your dreams.
I know this was an agonizing decision and not taken lightly, but seems like the best one at this time. I shall very much miss sending the wave, sea temp and ice reports each day, made me feel like I was helping. If you need any reports as you set sail for other destinations, please let me know!!!
There is no such OFFICIAL ADVICE on any USA or Canadian Coast Guard, NORDREG or Notice to Shipping or Notice to Mariners website. Good to see you on the side of SAFETY FIRST. Sail on!
Sorry you didn’t make it. Maybe next time! I hope you will enjoy your travels we have really enjoyed your posts. Hope to see more posts. Have a great day and a better tomorrow!
Despite the news, my gut tells me you guys will have plenty of unplanned adventures ahead and stories to share. Look forward to hearing them!
The return will be an adventurous journey of its own. You guys are amazing for getting as far as you did. You are all inspirational! Enjoy the return.
It’s all due to that pesky global warming.
I hope you’ll stop by and say hi. Jungles and beaches sounds like fun, but it’s probably hard for you guys to have to turn around you’ve gotten so far.
I can appreciate the difficulty in making the decision, but from here it certainly looks like you and your crew made the right one. Enjoy the arctic time/experience for what it was and look forward to what comes next, whatever and wherever it is. When Ocean Watch and Dog Bark raft up somewhere it will be fun to share some stories. Congrats to you and your crew.
The community of Barrow welcomes you back with much love and admiration!! Hope to see you all on our shoreline in the morning:)
What Christine and Hesse said!
+Sail on Dog Bark! <3
Great adventure! Thank you for sharing and having the good sense to stay safe. Keep us tuned to your next adventure.
love to you all
Jim and Mary on Journey
ps no ice in Fiji!
Massive bummer but all y’all saw lots of amazing country. Why don’t you find a good spot south of the freeze-up zone to park the boat and come visit us in Edmonton? Raven says she wants to tell you her secret. I’m certain it’s not too late to see the best of the Can Rockies this fall. Love, Ash, Josie, Raven, and Peri
I’m glad you guys are not taking a chance and turning around. Maybe next year! Safe sailing!
I’m sorry to hear that you can’t complete your original journey, but having recently read the book: In the Kingdom of Ice: The Grand and Terrible Polar Voyage of the USS Jeannette, it’s a relief knowing that you are sailing out of the ice in time. There are more adventures ahead!
Gib
Colorado
I understand the decision was hard; however, as everyone else mentioned- safety first. I tracked you first my reaction was, “What’s up with the double lines 👀”. I went back through my emails and of course I missed this one. Thank you for the experience and he blogs. Be safe and I’ll talk to you soon. KISSES ❤️
Keep on working, great job!
Well Dave C and I saw this together and we both said, ‘oh well, they’ll just find another audacious plan.’ Sounds like that’s already in the works. Anyhow, you don’t get Auklet back for a year or two, you might as well go someplace else cool.
Some years the ice gods let little boats through–other years its just not happening.
Great effort and inspiring. Better luck next year.
Peter
Retreat? Hell no, you are just advancing in a different direction.
Well that was a good try. We have been watching your progress with interest .So sorry it is not your year,we look forward to the next chapter of this story .Love to you all Bob and Deb in Degnan Bay